The Underpasses

A set of landmarks that give you a sense of the neighborhood’s DNA are its two pedestrian underpasses. Assumed to have been built at the same time as the Gyeongin Line, Korea’s first railway, Namyeong-dong’s underpasses are urban features rarely seen in central Seoul today. Clustered around the underpass near Sookmyung Women’s University Station are long-standing establishments including Guldari Maejeom, a supermarket; Guldari Guksu, a noodle shop; and Guldari Pocha, a tent-style restaurant and drinking establishment. (Guldari means “underpass” in Korean.)

Namyeong-dong and Yongsan U.S. Army Garrison

Separated by just a wall from the Yongsan U.S. Army Garrison, Namyeong-dong was called Yeongbyeongjeong during the Japanese occupation of Korea (1910–45). Many Japanese lived in the area, and remnants of the past remain in the form of Japanese-style houses. Much of the original architecture has survived because of building restrictions linked to the U.S. military base, formerly the headquarters of the Japanese Imperial Army.

Namyeong-dong is a hip place for foodies thanks to the buzz generated by Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars. In addition to Namyeong Chicken, run by chef Oh Juntak (“Yeongtak”), and Hyun Sangwook’s Keebo Edamame, on the neighborhood’s popular main street, diners are spoiled for choice with Via Toledo Pasta Bar, run by Kwon Sungjun (“Napoli Mafia”); Nawoo Namyeong, a wine bar run by Park Jiyeong (“Kitchen Gangster”); and Yangmoon, run by chef Ko Seokhyeon. All are within walking distance of one another.

For epicures seeking out Seoul’s finest, Namyeong-dong is all about its chefs, not its military base. No introduction of Namyeong-dong’s culinary heritage would be complete without mentioning its two most famous dishes: a Korean-style assorted grilled steak dish and budae jjigae, aka army stew. Teolbo, a restaurant founded 50 years ago, according to its bright yellow sign, is a mainstay of Steak Alley. Don’t expect a typical steak, though—the dish here dates back to when locals began serving up cuts of beef, sausages and bacon from the military base as a mixed grilled steak dish with chopped-up potatoes, eggplant, bell pepper and mushrooms thrown in for good measure. Served with side dishes such as spicy garlic chives and shredded cabbage salad with ketchup, this is steak with a Korean twist. The restaurant’s version of army stew is called budae jeongol, and it’s made with an oxtail broth base along with the usual “Made in USA” processed meats, which makes the stew less spicy and more flavorful than typical ones in Korea.

Namyeong Arcade Est. 1922

A few steps from Steak Alley is the entrance of Namyeong Arcade (signage in Korean), built in 1922 by the Japanese as a covered shopping arcade for local residents. Cathedralstyle lighting meets high wooden ceilings and concrete walls in this idiosyncratic structure that houses a warren of now mostly empty stalls. Occupied until the 2010s by grocers and other small business owners who sold necessities such as rice and eggs, the arcade currently hosts three businesses. These serve up food and drink that suits the space’s early 20th-century ambiance.

Wooden accents and a high ceiling complete the laid-back, cozy atmosphere of the specialty coffee shop and roaster Daily Routine. Savor a cup of coffee brewed to order while enjoying a moment of quiet, or do some people-watching by observing the regulars and enthusiasts making the pilgrimage to this gem of a café.

If you’re feeling peckish, head to Tanmak, a new venture by chef Oh Juntak of Culinary Class Wars fame. Tanmak specializes in charcoal-grilled dishes paired with traditional Korean alcohol. Tanmak is modeled after an izakaya, a traditional Japanese bar that serves bite-size dishes that go well with the drinks. Let yourself be seduced by flavorful dishes such as pickled radish with mackerel sashimi or Thai-style pork ribs. Or try the restaurant Yooyongwook BBQ Lab. As you might expect from an establishment with such a name, the succulent cuts here and traditional-style fermented sauces speak volumes about the chef’s dedication and creativity. At this reservation-only restaurant, be prepared for so much more than barbecue.

Culture Station Seoul 284

If you’ve enjoyed this itinerary so far, why not make Seoul Station your last destination? Originally built in 1900 as Namdaemun Station and renamed Gyeongseong Station, then Seoul Station, the building underwent extensive restoration work before reopening to the public in 2011 as Culture Station Seoul 284. Now an exhibition space and performance venue, its faithfully restored interior is nothing like your typical white cube gallery. Be sure to check opening times in advance as they may vary. Visitors to the Yeonnam Bangatgan café’s location at Culture Station Seoul 284 are whisked away to various provinces across Korea without ever needing to buy a train ticket: The establishment carefully curates the products of local brands and creators. Bangatgan means “mill” in Korean, which accounts for the sesame seeds and bottles of sesame oil for sale, as well as the café’s signature drinks and traditional snacks made from local grains.