Cool Retreat From the Summer Heat AOMORI
Each summer, as Tokyo and Osaka swelter, travelers find their way north to Aomori. Singer-songwriter and musician d-iZe takes us beyond its festivals and apple orchards to explore the regions’s spots that provide a respite from the bustle. Here are his recommendations for slow travel enthusiasts.
Tatehana Wharf Morning Market
⚑ Hachinohe, Shinminato, 3 Chome
Held early in the morning each Sunday, this market is one of
the biggest of its kind in Japan, with some 300 vendors taking part. Stretching 800m along the wharf, the bustling market draws thousands of visitors. In addition to the fresh catch of seafood from the waters near Hachinohe, the market brings together farm produce, side dishes and street food. It’s one of only a handful of Japanese markets that still cater primarily to the local population, rather than tourists.
Coffee Shop Mugiwara Boshi
⚑ Aomori, Shinmachi, 1 Chome−14−13
Aomori is a city where the kissaten (traditional tearoom) culture of the Showa period (1926–1989) is particularly well-preserved. For more than 40 years now, Coffee shop Mugiwara Boshi, which means “straw hat” in Japanese, has been giving locals a welcome respite from their busy routines. The highlight here is the café au lait: whenever an order comes in, the staff put on a show, setting the foam with a high pour.
- TIP Morning visitors can get a taste of the workaday routine as locals drop by for a caffeine hit before heading to the office.
Towada Art Center
⚑ C10-9 Nishi2bancho, Towada
A central part of Towada’s urban rejuvenation initiative, this contemporary art museum was designed by Ryue Nishizawa, cofounder of the SANAA architectural firm. Rather than focusing on one large building, separate exhibition spaces are scattered around the lot and linked by glass corridors. On permanent display here are works by world-famous artists, such as the massive sculpture Standing Woman by London-based Australian artist Ron Mueck. Other famous artists represented here include Kusama Yayoi and Choi Jeonghwa. Installations can also be found in the Art Square and along the street outside the museum, making the whole area feel like an outdoor exhibition.
- TIP How many white boxes are scattered around the space? The 16 exhibition spaces are connected with glass passageways. As you explore the buildings, both the artwork and the architecture will reward an appreciative eye.
KIBI GELATO
⚑ 8-48 Nishi2bancho, Towada
Expressing the seasons of Aomori through gelato, the shop’s menu is updated every week, featuring flavors made with apples, blueberries, milk and herbs sourced from local farms. The lowkey interior and cozy terrace create a beloved retreat for Aomori natives. The shop’s tasteful design furthers Towada’s aspiration of being a city of art, making this the perfect resting spot for weary gallerygoers.
- TIP The must-try flavor here is the apple basil gelato. This fragrant mashup of Aomori’s local crops shows off this shop’s original character.
Handmade Workshop Irodori
⚑ 38 Nakamachi, Kuroishi
The Aomori Nebuta Festival and the Hirosaki Neputa Festival, two of the best-known summer lantern festivals in Aomori Prefecture, present a phantas magoria of huge theatrical lanterns, some measuring as much as five meters high and nine meters long. Irodori is a workshop that “upcycles” festival paintings into new products. Sections of actual festival floats are repurposed as fans and lanterns, a creative activity that includes explanations of Nebuta/Neputa culture. Note that advance registration is often required, so be sure to check availability before you go.
- TIP Visit in early August to experience the Aomori Nebuta and Hirosaki Neputa festivals, along with hands-on craft workshops.
Lamp no Yado Aoni Onsen
⚑ Aonisawatakinoue-1-7 Okiura, Kuroishi
Tucked away in a remote ravine in the Hakkoda Mountains, Aoni Onsen is a nationally cherished hot spring largely hidden from public view. After sundown, the inn is illuminated by hundreds of oil lamps; don’t expect cellular service here. Modern amenities are kept to a minimum, allowing visitors to focus on the experience of total immersion in nature. Hot spring water is piped into indoor and outdoor pools, with a babbling brook nearby as the soundtrack. The inn is the holy grail for people seeking to achieve a digital detox by unplugging from their device and the urban hubbub.
- TIP Don’t miss the signature dish here: “bone sake” prepared with iwana (char), which is served alongside regional specialties.
- Korean Air operates direct flights between Incheon and Aomori 5 times a week.
